It's wonderful to be back in Latin America again. Every time, I am
amazed how nice
people are, which puts me in a good mood and people get even nicer.
Which
is helpful, because as a result, I get amused over (and not annoyed at)
the
little things... like, for example, driving directions in Costa Rica.
Here is a typical situation:
Me: Where can I buy waterproof
tanks with big lids to store stuff?
Tico: There is a place nearby
here, they have lots. It's easy to find.
Me: What is it called, where is
it, and how do I get there?
[Varios Ticos muttering and deciding the only thing they know is how to
get there.]
Tico [walks outside, signaling
me to follow, points at a bird sitting
on a power line on the other side of the street]:
You go down there, then this way, and then you get to a roundabout, and
you go like this, then you...
Me: Ok, so I go this way [point
down the street], and then make a right
where that green car is?
Tico: Yes, you go right [points
to left] and then you get to a second
roundabout and then...
Me: So, my first turn is to the
left [motion turning left]?
Tico: [looks at his hands, as
if trying to remember which one is which]
Hm, maybe I better draw you a map.
[goes inside. opens half-used notebook to
random page, and starts doodling, while occasionally muttering
something. The doodle starts out at a place where I have to pass
between a park and a high school, on what he claims
is the northern side of the park. The park is actually on the real map
I have, so I get hopeful. I recognize two roundabouts, and the doodle
continues over half the sheet, with many twists and turns.]
Me: Ok, so is this all one road
and I just go straight, or do I have to
turn?
Tico: Mostly straight, you just
go like this[points to doodle]
Me: [asking a trick question
here. This is a common technique I use.
Ask a simple question
that they will certainly be able to answer and that will either confirm
correctness of previous
more complicated explanation, or expose a major misunderstanding]: So
is it further out of town than the train station?
Tico: Yes, it's further down.
[I observe that this is inconsistent with his explanation of the
orientation of the
school and the park].
Me: [feeling like the dumb
clueless gringo] I think I'll just take a
taxi.
Tico #2 (#1's boss), to me:
Maybe it's better if he goes with you. You
can borrow him if you bring him back.
Tico #1: Ok, good idea.
Me: Perfect, thank you.
And thus, I found the place (la casa del tanque, Paso Ancho, El Carmen)
without getting lost.
The amazing thing here is that I am so helpless in spite of being
already used to the most peculiar aspects of getting around in Costa
Rica. I find it pretty normal now when someone's address
is "From the Fig, 800 meters south and 25m east" [Fig refering to a
large Fig tree that was cut down in the 1970s, and 800 meters meaning 8
blocks, which can be 300m or
2km or anything else, and 25m meaning a few houses down.] And I know
that
there is no Avenida between Av 12 and Av 14, just houses, because
Av 13 is on the other side of town, where all the odd-numbered
Avenidas are.
And I am not surprised when a taxi driver, when asked what
street I am on,
says "I don't know, I don't do street addresses".
And yet... I still get lost. Now I remember why 4 years ago I decided
to always take taxis
in Costa Rica...

But
back to my wonderful day. Luis at the Hotel Interamericano recognized
me as I walked through town, and greeted my warmly when I arrived at
the hotel. Mika, the cat, was also
still there, and I pulled up a couple of pictures of Mika as a kitten
in 2001. Luis got a
real kick
out of that. Mika did not recognize herself but started purring anyway.
Luis
even remembered that I know Kayakera Chinita, and asked me to say hi.
Blanca wasn't there, but has added many more signs to the interior
design of her hotel. It reminds me of Germany, and then I remember that
Blanca used to work in HR in the US, and the last place I saw that many
signs was on the door of the HR person at a startup I worked for.
Coincidence?
I
was amazed that I remembered where the button for opening the front
door is. And the computer at the hotel is still the same ancient Mac,
with the
same sign telling people to not touch it without assistance, which they
are happy to give.
Further events of the day were similarly pleasant, and included a
visit to CATIE, buying seeds, and catching up with Manuel from
Costa Rica Extreme, planning our expedition to the rivers near Las Delicias.
The only unpleasant part of my arrival was deciding what, if
anything, to declare on the customs form, which warns that
there is a fine of "100 central american pesos (US$ 100)"
for not declaring things. The currency in costa rica is the
Colon, and 100 of them are about $0.20. It further explains that you
have to declare everything you bring in, except for
luggage. Luggage is anything that you might "reasonable need for your
business in the country". There is normally an exemption
of $500 of things you don't reasonably need, but it is unclear
when it is granted and when it isn't. I decided I need a wakeboard
for my travels, and I never travel without my inflatable trampoline,
but I don't "need" 4 identical NiMh battery chargers so I declared
them.
In the end, it didn;t matter, they didn't even look at the form,
decided all my stuff looked camping equipment through on the xray,
and let me pass.
So even this was entertaining.